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Owner-guides: Nancy Frey and José Placer (Photo: Channing Thieme)	Nancy Frey (Photo: Channing Thieme)

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We have gathered together a number of comments from former On Foot in Spain travelers. If you would like references or email addresses, we are more than happy to provide you with a list. Just let us know!

Camino de Santiago, 2001

Nancy and Jose, it's difficult to comprehend that you are just two years in operation. Your organizational abilities, eye for detail, ability to adjust, wealth of knowledge and personal warmth are a rare combination of leadership skills. But your passion for the Camino left me with a warm glow each evening and whetted my anticipation for the next day's journey. When my memory of time and place fail, your passion for the Camino will remain with me like a glowing ember, and I'll always say that Nancy and Jose led me down the road to Santiago de Compostela. Jerry S., Mill Valley, California

Each day was the best day. There is no way to pick a favorite and no way to improve on Nancy's depth of knowledge. Jean L., NY, New York

Nancy & Jose are terrific ! Exceptionally well prepared, knowledgeable, able to communicate their love of the Camino. It was a privilege to travel with you. It was an exceptional experience ! I can't wait to tell my friends. I have learned so much and look forward to continuing my reading. A thoroughly professional operation, yet so friendly and personable. We'd love to travel with you again. Carolyn S., Mountain View, California

Very impressed with thoroughness and extensiveness of your knowledge, Nancy, and your enthusiasm for the various subjects you discussed in depth. I liked being given the opportunity to learn so much about architecture, art and religion. Also appreciated Jose's good humour, knowledge and love of his country, helpfulness carting our luggage in and out and impressed with his tirelessness in rounding up all the 'stray sheep' ! Carmen D., Barrie, Ontario, Canada

Your professionalism and enthusiasm were contagious. Your love of the Camino is real and I had a thoroughly enjoyable experience. My only regret is that my wife was unable to accompany me and share the highlights with me. I would recommend this tour without reservation to friends and acquaintances. I was impressed that you both were able to provide for all tour members given the wide levels of motivation for their participation in the Camino. Charles C., Milwaukee, Wisconsin

The combination of physical exercise and intellectual input is unique and unprecedented. You guys have developed a great business and very friendly environment that we enjoyed immensely. Thank you. Ilya and Bella F., Palo Alto, California

I have been on many guided trips on different continents. The preparation, knowledge and enthusiasm displayed by Nancy and Jose stands at the top whether the subject is cultural or natural history. This was easily the best trip I have been on. Your knowledge and love for people, history, location, culture and plants ( !) came through in the pre-departure information as well as on the trip itself. Anytime there was a question that arose you were able to answer it or research it with a local expert or from your extensive on-board library. I will be whole-heartedly recommending this trip to my friends and hope to return soon on another one of your trips. Thanks for everything ! Leighton N., Mountain View, California

Galicia 2001

The experience provided the longest sustained high that I've had on a trip in years. No one could ask for more from the leadership, organization, thoughtfulness and obvious preparation. It was a pleasure to be with people who so thoroughly love their country and their method of immersing oneself in it. It will long remain a great and meaningful memory. Harvey Y., Scarsdale, New York

Robyn refers to our On Foot in Spain vacation as 'one of our best'. Actually, I think it was the best. Thanks again. Charlie J., Mamaroneck, New York

I've never done anything like this but I felt totally safe and comfortable. Nancy and Jose were terrific and very knowledgeable. Every thing on the picnics was fresh and delicious - Jose was a wonderful HOST. To my great surprise, since I'm not an outdoors type, I loved this trip. The country was beautiful and Nancy and Jose made this a very special experience. Robyn K., Mamaroneck, NY

Fascinating, unusual, absorbing, challenging, very enjoyable. Particularly impressive : the quality of thought and planning that had been given to make it a balanced, thorough, interesting experience. Kathryn M., Scarsdale, NY

Thank you for providing us with a wonderful vacation. Your Galicia trip was outstanding. We were delighted by your attention to detail, your flawless execution and your incredible sensitivity to our needs and idiosyncracies. We learned a lot about a country we did not know much about and we certainly plan on coming back - we're looking forward to more hiking and more learning. PS - Please feel free to use us as references - we'll be more than happy to spread the good word. Marcel & Rebecca M., Scarsdale, NY

Knowledge. Exceptional. I have been on trips with many groups. Your versatility, history, knowledge added a special dimension to the trip. The combination of Jose's indigenous knowledge and Nancy's historical knowledge was unique. They are courteous, generous, patient, playful, fresh, kind, knowledgeable and delightful. I found Nancy & Jose's interest in our interests to be amazing. From the Sephardic cookbook/history to the book on Literary Spain. The music tapes reflecting guides who listened, cared and responded. I would love to learn more about Spain in general and other parts in particular. I could not think ofa better way to do it than with this gifted, generous, patient couple. Than you for your help with the lace tablecloth and everything else. You are both a joy. Diana A., Washington D.C.

An experience of a lifetime, which we'd love to repeat. I'm not ready to go home. Thanks again for a truly wonderful time. A special place was made more special by the two of you.

We are more than ever grateful for the wonderful, peaceful time we spent with you enjoying and learning about Galicia. You certainly enabled us to sustain our reputation among friends for taking unusual and fascinating vacations. More importantly, you reminded us that the simple pleasures are the best. Thanks again for your companionship. Larry & Marla R., Hamilton, New York

The main reason I chose On Foot in Spain was because it was owner guided and educational. I wanted more than just someone to point me to the right trail and make sure I ended up at thehotel/inn each night. I'm still amazed at how much information was shared with us on the trip. I look forward to doing the Basque trip with you because I know how much we'll learn about the area. Nancy knows something about everything, it seems. I give her 'A plus'.

Jose was excellent at doing the 'behind the scene' activities. It seems like you two had everything well planned and timed ; the van was always where it needed to be and the most important part of the day, our picnic lunch, was always ready and waiting for us ! I liked the variety of cheeses and vegetables that you chose and looked forward to a healthy lunch every day (You're right, Nancy about no weight gain on the trip. I weighed in the day after our return and actually lost about ½ pound).

I would not hesistate to recommend On Foot in Spain....in fact we already have. So much care and attention went into planning all the details involved. It's very obvious you two really enjoy what you're doing and it made for a fabulous trip for us. Thank you ! Becky S., California

Basque Country 2001

The trip was an excellent combination of sightseeing in beautiful medieval towns and museums and churches and hiking through interesting trees and plants to breathtaking overlooks as well as dining on wonderful local food and learning about the history of the places we saw. I especially liked learning about Roland and Charlemagne. I expect to do more reading about the history of Spain as the result of this trip. Nancy and Jose, your interest in everyone on the trip and kindness did much to make the trip very special ! You and Jose are wonderful guides and great people to get to know. I would love to go on more of your trips. I will be glad to recommend On Foot In Spain to anyone who needs a recommendation. Thank you ! Elizabeth G., Nashville, Tennessee

This was a wonderful week that went much too quickly. Everything seemed to run smoothly which was the result of a lot of preparation by you. Not only are you both very knowledgeable about the area but you both really care about the welfare of each individual hiker. All the trails were good ones and I liked the variety of scenery. The picnics were wonderful. I appreciated the opportunities to try squid, octopus, sardines, tuna salad and I really enjoyed the cheeses. Alice C., Nashville, Tennessee

Amazing that Jose did a 500m ascent with an entire ham (jamon serrano) on his back. The hikers' lunches really hit the spot. We really enjoyed benefiting from your knowledge. Great to get so much exercise ! Eileen G. and Scott K., Oakland, California

The tour was really excellent. It met all of our expectations. Nancy was very sensitive to our needs and was willing to be flexible when necessary. Jose is a very nice, good-natured man who was always there when you needed help. Jose and Nancy prepared a wonderful gourmet lunch and at the same time introduced us to the local specialties. They were the highlight of the day. It was a delight having such knowledgeable guides who sincerely seemed to be enjoying the tour as much as the guests. Thank you again. Glenda C., Portland, Oregon

Great flexibility was shown with regard to group dynamics. We really can't come up with any negative remarks and can't imagine that any changes need to be made to the tour. Many thanks for a fine journey. Continued good luck and great success : you run a great show. Arlene and Benson E., Randolph, New Hampshire

Here are comments from Summer 2000:

Everything was handled so efficiently and smoothly throughout the length of the tour. Nancy and Jose work together and complement each other in all ways. So many positive memories come to the surface as I look back on that experience. Most memorable are the hikes themselves, the picnic lunches and evening dinners and the knowledge shared along the way.

There were hikes in meadows winding around lakes and climbing hillsides where the tinkling of cowbells and the splashes of wildflower colors are vivid memories. There was a hike through the Cares River gorge, a spectacular natural wonder stretching seven miles long with towering peaks above and a deep riverbed below. The much anticipated event of the day was the picnic lunch which Jose backpacked in for us and carefully presented while awaiting ou arrival. There were always many varieties of delicacies including local cheeses, breads, green and black olives, petite corn cobs, white asparagus spears, carrots, tomatoes, etc. All the accommodations were very comfortable and well chosen for introducing us to inns in both the rural settings and larger towns with the Picos region.

In every way Nancy and Jose proved themselves to be expert guides and tour planners. Mostly their love of what they are doing shines through and makes for a most personable and delightful experience. I had a wonderful time. Jane and Charles F., Sacramento, California

"Nancy & Jose. It has been a real pleasure to enjoy this very planned and carefully thought out adventure. You are a delightful couple, and your enthusiasm was much appreciated. It goes without saying that Jose's picnic spots and menu were delightful. Your prompt responses to email and keeping me updated in preparation of this trip were exemplary. Nancy, your knowledge of Galicia is more than what I would expect a Galician to have. I enjoyed all meals, bar none. Starting and ending the tour in this fantastic hotel [5-star Reyes Catolicos in Santiago de Compostela] is a great idea. Your tour is the BEST and I wish you great success in your future endeavors....I think your set up is so far above all other 'commercial' tours that the best thing you can do, is, not to change much. Hope to join you on one of your future trips."

Kal S., Huntington Beach, CA

"An awesome experience in the real meaning of the word....You've opened a big door. Superb!...Excellent organization. Very well planned and balanced....Have re-read your book and enjoyed so much knowing the places mentioned; this time, too, could feel with the pilgrims as they described their expectations and discoveries."

Jennie H., Florence, AL

"Nancy & Jose could not have been more knowledgable or better prepared. The organization and pace of the schedule were outstanding...The operation was smooth but extremely flexible...The picnics were one of the highlights of the day. We appreciated our exposure to a variety of regional foods and the kind attention to our likes and dislikes. We loved the restaurants that you selected and would recommend every place that you chose. It was obvious that you took great care to expose us to many regional foods in different settings...This 'Camino' experience was one that we'll never forget. The knowledge, kind attention, warmth, good humor and sensitivity of our guides will long be remembered. Our group was so compatible that we hate to see it end...Thanks for creating a fabulous memory! What a rewarding experience. p.s. will highly recommend the trip to our friends!!"

Jean S. and Dianne S., Charlotte, North Carolina

"I find it remarkable how individuals can bond in such a short time!....The two of you add a special something that made the trip truly unique and memorable. I so appreciated your dedication to my total satisfaction. Thank you for being who you are."

Bernie S., New York City, NY

"Thanks again so much for everything. I've decided that the one-word description of the trip is 'magical'....Your knowledge was absolutely excellent. I can't imagine traveling with people more knowledgeable about an area, or more willing and able to share their knowledge....Organization was perfect....Part of the perfection is a measure of flexibility that allows small changes to be made easily in the face of unexpected circumstances....The meals were wonderful. The food was invariably delicious and representative of local cuisine....Every restaurant provided new information about local culture and local dishes. I'm going to try and learn to cook Spanish food at home!....I can't imagine how the tour could have been better, and I feel lucky to have participated in it. Every detail reflected thoughtful advance planning, and I felt your concern about us having a good time, and seeing what we wanted to see, during virtually every hour that passed, but always in a pleasant, low key fashion. Thanks to you both."

Karen P., Sacramento, CA

"The walking was great; each section so different it's hard to pick a favorite. Loved the uphill climb, meseta, wildflowers, greenery in Navarre and Galicia. Walk into Estella beautiful!... I felt like I was with the experts! It far surpassed my expectations... The organization could not have been better. Well paced for all levels....Can't wait to come back. Hope to count you both as friends."

Catherine H., Atlanta, GA

"Your information to me was superb!....Jose & Nancy, both of you complimented each other so, so well. Because of you, I know more about the history, the geology, the flora and the 'cows'. The church history and the legends about Santiago were inspiring for the non-religious me....Your organizational skills are outstanding. If I were the CEO of a corporation, I would try to hire you, both, immediately! The timing of everything was great. You gave us space when we needed it....Great food; the variety of breads and cheeses with the regular fare of tomatoes, baby corn, varieties of olives and peppers was perfect....I never have experienced such individual attention on any trip. The totality of the journey - and that includes the wonderment of Galicia, the interpersonal relationships among all included, the physical exerting, the eating, savoring, drinking of such special wines - exceeded my expectations in every way!"

Tony P., Boston, MA

"One of the best trips I've ever taken (that's not an exaggeration!). You were both fabulous - your knowledge, enthusiasm, and attention to detail resulted in a very special experience. Best wishes for much continued success!"

Vivian R., New York City, NY

"You have spoiled us! It will be hard to find a tour experience like this again (except with you!). Your (both of you) commitment to quality - enhancing every facet, being patient with us, introducing us to such exceptional places - was great and we are both quite conscious of it....Thank you both for a great experience." "Bernie and I think and talk often about our Galician adventure. When we tell our friends about it (as much as they can stand!) we run out of superlatives. As you know, we took a bunch of pictures--a few are good and we're still enjoy looking through them. We so appreciated your efforts--from the larger scheme of the trip to the smaller details!...Please keep us posted on interesting developments!"

Shelley M., New York City, NY

"I'm extremely impressed with your experience, your website and the sights/subjects of your tour. I was even more impressed when I compared your prices to other similar European tours and found yours to be very reasonable. Your website is excellent, very easy to find through several good links, and very professional. I also thank you for your immediate reply to my inquiries and your kind words!"

Hema A.

After returning from her trip to Galicia, a participant wrote the following letter about her journey and sent it to her family and friends.

"On Foot In Spain. www.onfootinspain.com. We saw the ad in the New York Sunday Times, logged on and signed on all in one day - propelled by some unbridled impulse that said DO IT! -Nine days in a foreign land. -A bit of history. -Good eating. -Good exercise. -Sounded ... good. Little did we know we were about to step into another arena in space and time and pleasure.

Unspoiled. Pastoral. Breathtakingly beautiful. Isolated from the rest of Spain by ocean, rivers and mountains, Galicia is a world into itself. Even its language, Gallego, sets it apart. Testimonials to its impressive history are evident throughout the region, from the ruins of circular settlements called castros dating to the 6th century BC and still functioning Roman churches, to the perpetual portrayals of its beloved St. James, whose remains were alleged to have been discovered in the 9th century at the site that became Santiago de Compostela. Medieval dwellings are still inhabited. Cowherds continue to pursue their flocks with stick-in-hand. Fishermen carry on traditions set by their great, great grandfathers. Women scrub clothes at washing wells and bake bread in centuries old communal ovens. We watched roofs being thatched and girls being taught how to make bobbin-lace. -And we listened to the favorite musical instrument of the area, dating back to invasions by the Celts, the bagpipe.

On Foot In Spain is the brainchild of a couple who share in common a passion for Northern Spain. Jose, a lawyer turned teacher / writer / carpenter / tour guide is a native of Santiago de Compostela. Nancy is a cultural anthropologist from California who has spent the past eight years studying, writing and lecturing on Galicia and El Camino. Their combined knowledge of the area's history, geography, anthropology, culture, architecture, art, flora, fauna, food, wine, music and folklore is boundless. Avid hikers, they have combed the countryside's trails, recording detailed descriptions in the Lonely Planet's Walking In Spain. Their tour objective is to encompass the best of the above.

This was our first tour, but I would imagine in any group that is bound together through travel, one's level of enjoyment is as contingent upon interpersonal dynamics as it is upon sites beheld. From the first meeting, the synergy among us was up-beat, smooth and amiable - with an immediate sense of camaraderie. Not one to sleep on airplanes, I crossed the Atlantic reading Nancy's Pilgrim Stories: On and Off the Road to Santiago, intrigued that her published dissertation concerned pilgrimage, a topic that has held my interest for years. From the personal content in her book to her easy and informative rapport in the planning of our trip, it was not surprising that Tony's most consistent adjective for Nancy was "sparkles". Without exaggeration, she and Jose are a physically beautiful couple, charged with enthusiasm, and organized to a T. Breakfasts concluded with map handouts - to be followed throughout the day by commentary on all aspects of interest. We traveled comfortably in a blue mini van in which, among all else there was a library of books of the region!

Their policy of BEST meant our lodgings (all with private bath) stretched from the exquisite five star Hotel Reyes Catolicos in Santiago and a lighthouse in Finisterre, to the slate-roofed Casa Carlos in a tiny mountain hamlet called Vilamor. All meals were provided, with emphasis on traditional fare. At this point I am about to run the risk of overdoing my superlatives, but the food truly was among the highlights of the trip. -Fresh. -Simply prepared. -Extraordinarily tasty. -Always accompanied by home-made wines. We ate what the local people eat ... and the local people in Galicia enjoy what must be some of the finest eating in the world. Dinners by the sea consisted of seafood salad appetizers followed by the catch of the day (grilled, fried, or as a caldeirada casserole) plus a selection of octopus (pulpo - the specialty of Galicia), squid, shellfish, fresh vegetables and potatoes. All were commonly served with refrito, an olive oil, garlic and paprika sauce. Mountain dinners began with Caldo Galego (soup), then Spanish tortillas (omelets of eggs, potatoes and onion), grilled or stewed beef, pork, chicken or lamb, green salads and French fries. Flan or Pastel Santiago (an almond cake) concluded every meal ... when there was room. -And then, the lunches! -In a minute.

First, the foot portion of On Foot In Spain! The days. The hikes. The point, in essence, of the journey. "Medium" level difficulty, said the www site: "Six to twelve miles a day on rolling hills and mixed trails with an occasional steep ascent". Tony goes on extended hiking trips every year with his buddies. He was tested. I was not. For all of our daily walking, I knew better than to ponder my hiking aptitude to any extent for fear of talking myself out of the trip. I admit, however, to sometimes amusing, sometimes horrific visions of myself gasping for breath, toiling behind in sweaty despair. Our first hike was one of the most difficult, the ascent of A Moa in the seaside mountain range called the Celtic Olympus. -And it was wonderful, with lush vegetation giving way to mountain meadows, rock formations, the sighting of wild horses - all in cool mist. -Not to mention the first of Jose's lunches! To our light day-packs, Jose's burden was gravity defying. Every day he produced a fresh loaf of pan (hogaza bread), a local cheese (Tetilla, Arzua, San Simon and Cabreiro - my favorite) and an assortment of olives (such as salmon filled), roasted red peppers, jamon serrano (lean ham), green or white asparagus, fresh tomatoes, ajeta (pickled garlic sprouts), baby corn, tuna or cod empanadas, pate a la pimienta, pate a la jamon, a variety of chorizos (Fuet, Salchichon, Iberico) and replenishment for our water bottles. All of this he carried with ease, racing on ahead so that our arrival at the lunch spot would be greeted by a magnificent spread!

Yes, happily, I could do it. -The hiking that is. The most difficult part of every day was the first half hour of incline as my lungs adjusted to the increased demand for oxygen. The feeling of competence that ensued, however, is beyond description. It bears mentioning with admiration that Karen Patterson soared at Jose's heels for most of the trip!

The following three days were one extended walk along the Costa da Morte, returning each morning to where we had left off. The lone sandy beach deceptively featured on summertime travel posters is a reality here. -Beach after glorious beach. We hiked for miles along seaside trails with one outstanding view after the next, almost never encountering another individual. Consistent througout the trip, Nancy would periodically pause to point to a particular indigenous flower or a rock that looked like a bear, or she would describe the "Death Coast's" heart wrenching history and tell stories about the light houses and fishing villages along the way. In the afternoons and evenings we visited monastic ruins, local museums and lace makers, and watched the fishing boats return to port, overflowing with their catch.

Our day of transition to the mountains started with the third leg of the coastal hike. En route to Piornedo we toured the 'medieval' river port of Betanzos and then walked the circumference of the fortified city of Lugo on its second century Roman wall. If the seaside fishing villages had been isolated, the mountain pueblos were back-of-beyond, accessed only by a narrow, winding single-laned road with steep drop-offs. One could not help but equate this near impenetrable land of tiny hamlets to a Spanish Brigadoon, complete with the violet hue of heather blossoming on the hillsides! Upon one turn in the road Jose pointed to the highest point in the Serra Dos Ancares, O Mostallar, the 6437' peak that we were scheduled to ascend the following day. Gasp! It too, perhaps it most of all, turned out to be a personal high in every meaning of the word. Before the trip was to end we would drive to another mountain range, the Serra do Courel, climb a mountain devesa, a "type of forest unique to Spain with more than 1000 species (both flora and fauna)", and drink from its side-by-side lime and iron based springs famed for their healing qualities (Fonte Do Cervo). The final day began by following the Rio Lor (by foot) from hamlet to hamlet along nine miles of ancient trails, and concluded with Santiago's most elegant restaurant back at the Hotel Reyes Catolicos.

Over dinner every night Nancy would ask each of us our highlights of the day. I now ask myself, the highlights of the trip? Hard.

• The affinity of the group. We traveled as one body. There was no discord nor imbalance. The guides, Nancy and Jose, were superb. Our times of exchange were often profound. Moments within our own thoughts were respected.
• Quite simply, the glory of Galicia! It is impossible to distinguish a spot or an occasion as better than the rest. My two most memorable sites while hiking were the descent over meadows, cliffs and dunes to the spectacular Traba Beach, and the panoramic ridge walk on Pico de Lagos in the Ancares Range.
• The fact that nine days away felt like nine weeks! We returned recharged and enriched - our outlook on life broadened."

Channing T., Boston, MA

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